Jonathan Anderson Went Deep Into the Archives to Bring Dior Into the Future

At Dior, creative director Jonathan Anderson remains an adept archivist who’s able to cull the past for inspiration, but rework the references in a way that feels completely new and wholly his own.

Jonathan Anderson debuted his first Dior Men’s collection, which played with preppy and aristocratic signatures, last summer. He’s kept some of that for his Fall/Winter 2026 men’s collection, focusing on “aristo-youth,” but also pivoted to a new world influenced by designer Paul Poiret, who founded his fashion house in 1903 and helped create the blueprint for a modern fashion designer. Anderson merged many ideas to present an exciting collection of eclectic menswear that challenged conventions while honouring the past.

From the looks to the set, sound, and more, here is Complex Style’s PFW Report Card for Dior Men’s Fall/Winter 2026.

Check out our grades for Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2026 here and an interview with Jaden Smith about his Christian Louboutin debut here.

Clothing: A

While many brands are playing it safe with easily digestible and refined clothes this season, Anderson is rejecting normality, opting for interesting pieces constructed in completely new ways. The show opened with sleeveless sequined tops inspired by Paul Poiret’s women’s dresses, which were styled with skinny jeans.

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Looks reminded everyone that Anderson is always going to pivot and surprise. He continued to rethink tailoring, presenting cropped versions of Dior’s signature Bar jacket, along with relaxed suits and tuxedo jackets with tails. Sometimes tailoring was styled with voluminous skirts and denim shorts with sailor pant details that felt young and less formal.

Anderson, a master at creating new shapes and silhouettes, brought that to his strong assortment of outerwear. It included double breasted wool coats accentuated with almost cartoonish, but fun, bursts of fur on the sleeves, and cropped down jackets covered in lush, brocade fabric. The clothes felt fresh and deeply considered.

Accessories: A

Some of the footwear from Jonathan Anderson's Dior Fall/Winter 2026.
WWD/WWD via Getty Images

Following the buzzy book bags he debuted last season, his accessories this season played more of a backseat for this collection. But they were still great. Standouts included tweed messenger bags, short boots coming in a variety of colours and animal skins, and new takes on the Dior Bottine sneaker that he introduced last season.

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Music: A

Mk.gee was a big influence to the Dior Fall/Winter 2025 show.
Marleen Moise/Getty Images

After meeting artist Mk.gee, Anderson was inspired by his style and also incorporated his song “Alesis” into the finale walk.

Set Design: B

The Dior Fall/Winter 2026 presentation took place at The Rodin Museum.
Kristy Sparow/Getty Images

Staged at the The Rodin Museum, which features historic works like “The Thinker” from the French sculptor Auguste Rodin, it was a clean set with blue tiled seats and long taupe curtains covering the perimeter of the space.

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Attendees: B

Lewis Hamilton was one of the many stars in attendance for Jonathan Anderson's Dior Fall/Winter 2026 presentation.
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SZA, Lakeith Stanfield, Pharrell Williams, Lewis Hamilton, Robert Pattinson, and Young Lean were among the guests who attended the show.

Final Grade: A

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