Elias Marte is a lifelong Dominican-American New Yorker who has been collecting watches since 2012. He is a partner at Alfargos Marketplace, a menswear clothing market, and a curator of vintage watches. His work centers on curating accessible vintage dress watches, and he also provides watches for lookbooks and brand campaigns. His most recent curation was featured at J.Crew’s Bond Street store in New York City.
Over the years, vintage watches have risen in popularity. It’s easy to see why. Quality pieces are more accessible than ever. Many vintage watches even have superior gold plating compared to modern models, and real deals are out there if you know where to look.
Social media has played a huge role in the rise of vintage watches. Collectors and dealers share their pieces online. It’s easier than ever to ask questions, learn, and discover rare pieces. And each piece carries a story that new watches just can’t replicate. A perfect patina, aged dial, or a watch kept in a safe for decades adds character.
Buying vintage doesn’t just get you a watch. It’s history on your wrist. Here are 10 Best Vintage Watches to Buy in 2026.
Seiko Tank (Chariot Line)
Read More
Produced: 1970s through 1990
Current Value: $300-$500
You can never go wrong with Seiko. The Chariot line is a true deep cut, known for its beautiful tank-style watches with gold or cream dials, and bold Roman numerals.
The standard size runs on the 2620 or Cal 43 quartz movement, while the mini uses the 1400. The mini especially holds its own next to a Cartier Must, at a fraction of the price.
Affordable. Reliable. Clean. This is one of those watches that always sells quick, which is why I keep it in my rotation.
Rolex Datejust
Produced: Various years
Current Value: $4,400-$5,000
You can never go wrong with the Rolex Datejust. It’s one of the most versatile watches ever made. The classic fluted bezel, Jubilee bracelet, and that signature Rolex Rolesor look. I have a 16013 in my personal collection.
Universal Genève Ref. 542114
Produced: 1960s to early 1970s
Current Value: $550-$700
This cushion-case tank is one of the best value vintage dress watches today. It’s powered by a reliable in-house manual movement, the Caliber 1-42, which is built for slim, elegant dress watches. It also features surprisingly thick gold plating that’s comparable to early Cartier Must models.
This is a true sleeper piece. I’ve sold a few of these. Shout out to those who grabbed them at Alfargos Marketplace before the come-up.
Universal Genève Ellipse
Produced: late 1960s to late 1970s
Current Value: $850-$1,400
Another strong design from Universal Genève, the horizontal ellipse case with an integrated bracelet gives it a distinct look, especially in the summertime. Powered by a manual Caliber 42 movement, this time-only Universal Geneve is tricky to date, but examples were produced from the late ’60s through the late ’70s.
At around 34mm, it wears well on most wrists. This watch is effortlessly different without trying too hard, which is what makes it so good. I usually keep these in my inventory.
Vulcain Cricket
Produced: 1947 to 1970s
Current Value: $1,500-$4,000
Also known as the “President’s Watch,” this style was worn by Harry S. Truman, Lyndon B. Johnson, and several presidents thereafter.
It was one of the first successful mechanical alarm wristwatches ever made. This one is a true conversation piece with real history and a unique complication. If you want something different from the typical dress watch, this is a strong pickup. There’s also a precious metal version, which obviously goes for more.
IWC Calibre 89
Produced: 1946 to 1979
Current Value: $1,400-$4,500
These are some of the most reliable vintage dress pieces you can buy. They feature a classic three-hand layout, clean round cases, and a movement known for durability. It’s why many collectors call it the “poor man’s Patek Philippe Calatrava.” These can be found in yellow or rose gold with a wide variety of dial and lug configurations.
Vacheron Constantin Ref. 7813
Produced: 1970s to late 1980s
Current Value: $3,300-$4,400
Vintage Vacheron Constantin remains surprisingly undervalued. This reference features an 18k gold case and a manual movement caliber (K1014) derived from a Jaeger-LeCoultre base (Cal. 818 lineage). That signifies quality. If you’re looking for an alternative to Cartier, this is a serious collector’s move.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Produced: 1990s to 2000s
Current Value: $4,000-$5,000
This is one of the most iconic designs in watch history. Originally created for polo players, its reversible case protects the dial, while adding a unique mechanical element.
It works in any setting, formal or casual. Personally, it’s one of the pieces in my collection that consistently gets compliments from serious collectors.
Great deals can still be found in both men’s and women’s models. This one is available in stainless steel or solid gold cases with either quartz or manual wind movements. You’ve got options.
Cartier Tank Basculante (Stainless Steel)
Produced: late 1990s
Current Value: $4,500+
This Cartier’s answer to the Reverso, but flies a bit under the radar.
Its vertical tilting mechanism was designed to protect the crystal during sports like tennis or polo, blending elegance with functionality.
The stainless steel versions are especially slept on and represent one of the more interesting entry points into Cartier. There’s yellow gold models, but be warned. They’re more expensive.
Universal Genève Polerouter
Produced: 1954 to 1969
Current Value: $1,200-$4,000
This is one of the most iconic pieces in the Universal Genève catalog. Designed by Gérald Genta, the same person that designed Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Phillipe Nautilus, it was created for SAS pilots flying over the North Pole. This is an area where magnetism affected navigation and timekeeping. This is one of the few Gérald Genta designs that’s still relatively affordable. Don’t wait too long. It’s definitely appreciating.
